using your lavosh for sandwiches

a few weeks ago, i posted a recipe for lavosh, the commonly used bread of the (eastern) mediterranean region. the advantage of this type of bread over, say, pita, is that it can be made, left to dry out completely and stored for a very long time with the intention of using it later for sandwiches.

the difference between the two is that the standard pita, unless you're buying the gigantic ones, is much smaller and pita cannot be dried out and rehydrated for later use. another difference is that lavosh does not have an interior pocket and is much thinner and delicate. it is used the same way one would a flour tortilla (i.e. rolled). the rehydrated lavosh are also softer in texture than pita.

as a note, i much prefer to dry them out and use them reconstituted as opposed to eating them fresh after they come out of the oven — well, at least just on their own without filling them, that is.

if you do try them, you'll decide for yourself how you like them.

onwards.....

to use your dried lavosh breads:

the best way, i have found for the recipe i posted is to —

1. take paper towels and wet them and wring them so they are moist but not dripping wet;

2. take the whole lavosh, and holding it carefully, run it under the tap water for about 10 seconds making sure all of it gets wet. shake it a bit and let the excess water drip off of it;

3. wrap the lavosh with the paper towels and then carefully put it in a clean plastic bag and lay it flat somewhere undisturbed for a minimum of two hours.

through experience, i've noted that the optimal way is to use a top layer of paper towel and a bottom one so when you make the sandwiches, all you have to do is remove the top towel, making it less likely that you'll get too many rips or tears.


4. for it to soften up, it all depends upon how quickly the water is absorbed by the bread. this make take up to 4 or 5 hours depending on the weather and other conditions;

start to check it after two hours. if it is flexible and soft all over it is ready. don't attempt to use it if there are still any hard spots.

5. don't be alarmed if it tears a bit here and there; that shouldn't make much of a big deal. these usually occur around the edges as seen in the picture above. the surface is large enough that, when rolled up, any small tears will be reinforced.

* * * * * *

making lavosh wraps/sandwiches:

makes 1 large sandwich (enough for 1 or 2 people) / per each lavosh

ingredients:

lavosh bread

use your favourite fillings —

examples:

*grilled vegetables (eggplant, zucchini, red and green peppers)
*wild greens (mâche, arugula, etc) or shredded lettuce
*tuna or salmon
*hardboiled eggs or egg salad
*cheeses
*sliced tomatoes
*capers or sliced olives
*herbs: parsley, mint, dill, etc.

salt & pepper (don't omit!)

mayonnaise or thoum (optional)
red pepper paste or harissa (optional)

method:

remove the paper towel carefully (important: i usually just remove the top part to expose it and leave the bottom in place to avoid any possible tearing).

take olive oil and cover the surface of the lavosh (usually about 2 tbsp). you can also take red pepper paste and smear it on instead but be careful if it is very spicy as too much is not a good thing.

place the filling ingredients on the lavosh in the middle of the bread, leaving a border (where you will be folding things). here i used tuna, eggs, tomatoes, capers, etc...

fold the sides over first.

then fold up the bottom (here it looks like the sides!)

.... and then roll it all fairly tightly.

you can now either cut it in half and eat it as is or, as i like to do, wrap it in wax paper and then cut it. it should be fine either way depending on how well you rolled it.

remember the first one you make may not be perfect. try again until you get it the way you like. these make great sandwiches to take to work or for quick lunches or suppers, especially in the hot summers.

enjoy!

red hot ..... or not

routinely used in turkish cooking, and also in some other mediterranean cuisines, this potent bright red paste packs quite a punch in terms of flavour. while it can be bought in jars from (middle eastern) grocery stores which carry it, the paste is quite easy to make at home and stores well for several weeks in the fridge as long as it is covered with oil, as you would do for harissa. depending upon the brand you buy, it will vary in degrees of heat level however with a homemade one you can control the spiciness.

different people make this different ways. one of the "real" ways to make this involves cutting, seeding & blanching the peppers {some people salt them to extract excess water}, grinding them and then leaving the finished mixture to dry outdoors. over a few days in the hot summer sun, it will lose moisture and then darken to a thick reddish maroon colour. i'll be honest — while i prefer making foods the proper and authentic way, the idea of the potential for insects colonizing the prepartion is a big deterrent for me for a variety of reasons, in addition to the "yuck!" factor. i digress....

i make it a much quicker way, one which my aunt's friend showed her — almost in the same manner which i saw, several years back, in a book by author, p. wolfert. doing it the way i show here takes 30 to 45 minutes, preparation and cooking time factored in. it is very straightforward and uses everyday red (capsicum) peppers. most of the work, if you can call it that, comes in reducing the mixture over the stovetop. the only drawback to this method is the 'spitting' of it while it cooks down. i suggest putting either tea towels or newspaper (safely weighed down!) around the stove top and counter.

so what does one do with this paste? well, we used it to add to either bulgur or rice dishes. it was mixed with the water or broth and then this was added. since it has a lot of flavour, very little salt or pepper, if any, was necessary. that, LOL, is about all we ever did with it; i'm sure there are many other dishes it is used in.

the amount here only makes about 1/3 of a cup (or maybe a little more). if you want, you can adjust the amounts as you need. if you don't like very hot things, reduce the amount of red chili peppers you use but don't omit them! make sure to keep the paste covered with oil at all times to create a seal so no mold will develop. as i said earlier, made this way it's good for quite a few weeks (which is why i only make a small amount at a time). use about a heaped tsp per 2 cups of liquid or to taste.


quick (turkish) red pepper paste

makes ~ 1/3 c paste

ingredients:

2 very large red peppers
1 to 2 dried red (cayenne) peppers
2 tbsp water
1 tbsp olive oil (not extra v)
1/2 tsp sugar
1/4 tsp salt

2 tbsp olive oil, extra (not extra v)

method:

before starting:

reconstitute the red cayenne peppers in 1 cup of boiling water and let sit for 1 hour until softened. with rubber gloves or under running water, remove the hard stem end and the seeds. leaving a few is ok. if you're into intense heat, then just the stem ends. i don't suggest it. cut the chilis into several pieces

continue on:

take the red (capsicum) peppers and wash them well. cut them in half and seed them and then cut them in strips.

place the red peppers, the chili peppers, 2 tbsp water the salt and sugar and 1 tbsp of olive oil.

blend it for about 4 to 5 minutes (depends upon your blender) until fully puréed. it will be foamy and bright orange.

place the mixture into a dutch oven or wok and bring to a boil, stirring, over high heat.

reduce heat to medium high and let the mixture cook for about 15 to 20 minutes.

reduce heat again to medium low and let cook until it is visibly thickened. when you pull the spoon through the mixture, you will see remain separated for a bit before coming back together again.

at this point, add 2 more tbsp of olive oil (only use regular as extra v is too strong). mix well and keep cooking.


you will know the mixture is ready when it has lost most of its liquid and comes together in a single mass.

let the mixture cool completely on a plate.

place it in a jar and pour mild olive or vegetable oil over it and refrigerate. make sure oil is covering it before putting it back in the fridge.

enjoy!

more mezze

many variations exist for this simple appetizer recipe called ma'hammara (aka muhammara). with just one bite of it, you'll be hooked! like all recipes, the differences in ingredients used, quantities or proportions and method are based upon the country of origin and the (ethnic) group who is preparing it. no doubt this was originally prepared by hand with a mortar and pestle or having all ingredients chopped finely and then mixed together. today, it can be quickly and easily made in a food processor or blender.

this unctuous red and spicy spread is said to have its origins in syria however it is made and served in many a country in the middleast and {eastern} mediterranean. the original syrian version includes aleppo pepper which can still be bought today from places like kaluystan's in new york city or establishments like dean and deluca that sell more specialized ingredients. if you can get your hands on it, use it by all means. ma'hammara was one of several mezze appetizers to show up on our table for holidays and sabbath celebrations; the following rendition is how i know it.

there are some special instructions, or tips if you want to call it that, that i've explained in the recipe so be sure to read it through before starting. they are important for the final outcome. one thing that has recently come to my attention again, and something i have noted in the past, is the use of very little oil in many a recipe. when you see something that says 2 tsps or 2 tbsp, move on ..... it's more like 1/2 c of oil! that's what gives it its final luscious texture. if you're worried about fat content, remember it's olive oil which is good for you — and unless you live alone and are voraciously hungry for ma'hammara, are you really going to eat the whole thing by yourself in one sitting? LOL.

walnut & roasted red pepper appetizer
ma'hammara

makes ~ 2 cups (16 oz)

ingredients:

3 large red peppers (capsicum type) - roasted, peeled & seeded
2 - 4 cloves garlic

~1 c (100 - 120 g) walnuts*
1 small pita bread or 1 or 2 slices wholewheat bread or similar**

1/2 lemon, juiced
1 - 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses ("dibs" [ruman]) or balsamic vinegar
1/2 -1 tsp salt
1 - 2 tsp sugar
1 tsp harissa paste OR 1 red (fresh chili seeded)
OR 1/2 tsp paprika + ~ 1/2 tsp chili powder OR chili flakes
1/2 - 1 tsp paprika, optional
(you can use smoked or hot paprika but be careful not to overdo it if using hot paprika)
1/2 tsp (or more) ROASTED cumin powder

8 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided: 6 tbsp + 2 tbsp

*they MUST be toasted first or you will end up with a flat raw tasting appetizer dish. do not roast them for too long though as they can turn bitter.

**either leave the pita or wholewheat bread out to dry overnight OR dry it in the oven or toaster or microwave. i use an 7 or 8 inch sized pita; you may not need to use the whole thing.


method:

there are two ways to do this — one is by processing all in successive steps in the food processor. often, people will overprocess so i am giving the directions in the other way, which is to combine and mix. some people find this easiest.

roast your red peppers either in an oven at 425F turning every so often or in a grill pan (or over the hobs of a gas oven). allow them to cool (covered in a container) and then peel the skin off. remove the veins and seeds and cut them in large pieces.

i use preroasted turkish red peppers which come in a jar and are different from the standard capsicum type. they are a bitter spicier and have a different shape (longer and thinner). either work fine for this recipe, however.

the good part is that the preroasted ones just require remove a few seeds and cutting them up.

n.b. before grinding the bread and walnuts, make SURE they are both at room temperature and are not hot or warm. this will cause them to fuse together as the oils have not resolidified in the walnuts and there is moisture in the bread.

take the bread and place it in the food processor. run the machine by pulsing to break up the bread. if you are using pita, you may not need to use the whole thing -- you'll have to experiment and see. give the bread a quick process before adding the nuts to break it up smaller.


add the walnuts and process until it is fairly smooth but remains a bit textured. place this in a bowl.

place the garlic in the same processor bowl and chop it up finely. be judicious with your garlic as adding too much will ruin it. i use two large ones. if your cloves of garlic are small, use 3 or 4 to compensate. if using a fresh red chili, add it to the garlic at the same time.

into the garlic, add the red pepper pieces and pulse the processor until it is chopped.

now run the machine and pour the 6 tbsp of oil into it and let it process until it turns orangey-red and lightens.
you will have small flecks of red. do NOT overprocess your mixture.

add the red pepper paste to the walnut-bread mixture and stir.

add the salt, sugar, ONLY 1 tbsp pomegranate syrup or balsamic vinegar, lemon juice, paprika (if using) and cumin.

mix again and taste. adjust the cumin, salt and sugar. add the second tbsp of pomegranate syrup or vinegar if needed. the colour will be less red at this point.

let the mixture sit for about 2 hours minimum.

place the mixture in a dish or spread it on a plate and drizzle the last 2 tbsp olive oil on top before serving. garnish with mint sprigs and serve with fresh pita or dried pita "chips". it is also very good with challah bread.

enjoy!

coffee break — time for a snack

churik (choreg)

these mildly sweet little buns are brioche-like but with a different taste than the commonly known french type — it is one of the eastern mediterranean, namely turkey, armenia and greece. flavoured with mahlep, the ground kernals of a particular (wild) cherry tree, these breads are served with strong coffee and enjoyed with preserves and sometimes kaymak which is a very thick cream, something like that of english devon cream. the mahlep cannot be replaced and there is no substitute for it. do seek it out and give it a try. we also add orange flower water to these and sometimes a bit of cinnamon mixed with allspice but only in a very small amount.

makes 7 buns (recipe can be doubled)

ingredients:

1 tsp instant yeast
2 tbsp water

4 tbsp butter or margarine, melted (or oil)
4 tbsp milk or soymilk
1 large egg
3 tbsp sugar
2 capfuls orange flower water (opt)

1 1/2 c ap flour
1 tsp mahlep
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt

1 egg yolk + 2 tsp milk or water
sesame seeds (and/or nigella seeds)

method:

place yeast and water in a small bowl and let sit 10 minutes.

in the meantime, melt the butter in the microwave or on stovetop (only just to melt — don't make it scorching hot). add the milk and sugar only and mix well. once the mixture is only warm, add the eggs and orange flower water, if using, and mix well again.

add the yeast mixture and stir again. set aside.

in a medium bowl, mix together the flour, mahlep*, baking powder and salt. mix well with a whisk.

*make sure to pulverize the mahlep completely or pass it through a fine sieve as it tends to clump. this is very imporant.

add half of the flour mixture to the wet ingredients and mix well.

add the rest of the flour mixture and knead for about 2 or 3 minutes. it should be a soft dough and feel a bit greasy but not sticky. as you knead more, it will become less sticky (it may be initially when you start kneading it).

place the dough in a greased bowl and cover with a damp tea towel or plastic wrap. cover the tea towel with a plastic bag and let everything rise for about 1 1/2 hours. it needs to double. i usually place it above a smaller bowl filled 1/3 of the way with boiling water to keep the dough warm as it proves.

once doubled, take the dough out of the bowl and deflate it slightly.

cut 7 equal pieces of dough and roll them into balls. make sure they are nice and round. if you have handled the dough a lot before cutting, it is harder to make nice cohesive balls of dough. it can still be done however.

cover them and let them sit for 10 minutes.

take one of the balls and flatten it into a disc shape.

with your thumb, press a small hole into the center of the dough and almost all the way through.

place the disc on a parchment lined or greased baking sheet and press again into the disc to make the hole open up all the way through.

continue with the rest of the dough, leaving space in between.

cover the baking sheet with a tea towel and let it rise for another hour. tedious yes, but necessary or they won't puff up properly. i've made these countless times and they are always smaller if i don't prove them fully.

after 30 minutes of proving, heat the oven to 350 F.

before placing the churik in the oven, make your eggwash and coat them fully. sprinkle sesame seeds and/or nigella seeds all over.

bake them for 20 to 22 minutes until they are just golden brown.

let them cool on a rack.

serve with turkish coffee and jams or preserves. store them in a plastic ziploc type bag and they will stay fresh for about 2 to 3 days. you can reheat them slightly in the microwave, if you like them warm.

enjoy!