using your lavosh for sandwiches

a few weeks ago, i posted a recipe for lavosh, the commonly used bread of the (eastern) mediterranean region. the advantage of this type of bread over, say, pita, is that it can be made, left to dry out completely and stored for a very long time with the intention of using it later for sandwiches.

the difference between the two is that the standard pita, unless you're buying the gigantic ones, is much smaller and pita cannot be dried out and rehydrated for later use. another difference is that lavosh does not have an interior pocket and is much thinner and delicate. it is used the same way one would a flour tortilla (i.e. rolled). the rehydrated lavosh are also softer in texture than pita.

as a note, i much prefer to dry them out and use them reconstituted as opposed to eating them fresh after they come out of the oven — well, at least just on their own without filling them, that is.

if you do try them, you'll decide for yourself how you like them.

onwards.....

to use your dried lavosh breads:

the best way, i have found for the recipe i posted is to —

1. take paper towels and wet them and wring them so they are moist but not dripping wet;

2. take the whole lavosh, and holding it carefully, run it under the tap water for about 10 seconds making sure all of it gets wet. shake it a bit and let the excess water drip off of it;

3. wrap the lavosh with the paper towels and then carefully put it in a clean plastic bag and lay it flat somewhere undisturbed for a minimum of two hours.

through experience, i've noted that the optimal way is to use a top layer of paper towel and a bottom one so when you make the sandwiches, all you have to do is remove the top towel, making it less likely that you'll get too many rips or tears.


4. for it to soften up, it all depends upon how quickly the water is absorbed by the bread. this make take up to 4 or 5 hours depending on the weather and other conditions;

start to check it after two hours. if it is flexible and soft all over it is ready. don't attempt to use it if there are still any hard spots.

5. don't be alarmed if it tears a bit here and there; that shouldn't make much of a big deal. these usually occur around the edges as seen in the picture above. the surface is large enough that, when rolled up, any small tears will be reinforced.

* * * * * *

making lavosh wraps/sandwiches:

makes 1 large sandwich (enough for 1 or 2 people) / per each lavosh

ingredients:

lavosh bread

use your favourite fillings —

examples:

*grilled vegetables (eggplant, zucchini, red and green peppers)
*wild greens (mâche, arugula, etc) or shredded lettuce
*tuna or salmon
*hardboiled eggs or egg salad
*cheeses
*sliced tomatoes
*capers or sliced olives
*herbs: parsley, mint, dill, etc.

salt & pepper (don't omit!)

mayonnaise or thoum (optional)
red pepper paste or harissa (optional)

method:

remove the paper towel carefully (important: i usually just remove the top part to expose it and leave the bottom in place to avoid any possible tearing).

take olive oil and cover the surface of the lavosh (usually about 2 tbsp). you can also take red pepper paste and smear it on instead but be careful if it is very spicy as too much is not a good thing.

place the filling ingredients on the lavosh in the middle of the bread, leaving a border (where you will be folding things). here i used tuna, eggs, tomatoes, capers, etc...

fold the sides over first.

then fold up the bottom (here it looks like the sides!)

.... and then roll it all fairly tightly.

you can now either cut it in half and eat it as is or, as i like to do, wrap it in wax paper and then cut it. it should be fine either way depending on how well you rolled it.

remember the first one you make may not be perfect. try again until you get it the way you like. these make great sandwiches to take to work or for quick lunches or suppers, especially in the hot summers.

enjoy!

reruns no. 1 — lavosh

as everyone knows should know, there is no one definitive recipe — or more accurately put, set of measures of ingredients — for any given prepared food. rather it's more a set of ratios and/or standards, which when combined and executed, give a culturally accepted flavour or texture or shape to whatever we are making. a case in point would be for something like bagels which are a staple bread here in north america (usa & canada). depending upon where you live, one community's bagels are very different from another one's. each community thinks its version is the right one.

much of it comes down to what you grow up with in your community and personal tastes. what one person may find delicious and inviting, the next person may find disgusting and unpalatable. such is the reality of cooking and baking.

over the next while, time permitting, i will post some "reruns" of previous recipes. it has nothing to do with previous versions not being "good" but rather variations on the same theme.

the first rerun is for the "crackerbread" called lavosh which is a staple of turkey and armenia. if you want to (re)read, or missed the previous post about it then look here. that version is made with wholewheat flour and is texturally different from the following one. it also contains information about the history of the bread and how it is/was made traditionally.

this {modified} recipe is from a cookbook by victoria jenanyan wise called simply, the armenian table. it results in a soft(er) version made from all purpose flour. it makes for great sandwiches or using as you would pita bread. i have been using it for several years now. i've changed the proportion of water a bit and the shaping is how i (learned to) do it .....

UPDATE: to use the lavosh bread here for sandwiches, follow these directions.


lavosh

makes 6 large lavosh breads

ingredients:

4 tbsp margarine or shortening (or olive oil)

2 tsp rapid rise yeast (or 2 1/2 t active dry)
1 1/4 c warm water
2 tsp sugar

3 1/2 c AP flour
2 1/2 tsp salt

sesame seeds

large baking sheet
parchment paper

method:

measure 4 tbsp margarine or shortening or (olive) oil. don't use butter as the milk solids in the butter will cause the lavash to brown too quickly.

if using margarine, melt it first and set aside.

prove yeast: add 1 1/4 c warm water with 2 tsp rapid rise (or 2 1/2 tsp active dry) and 2 tsp sugar.

let sit at least 15 minutes to fully 'bloom'.

add the melted margarine or oil to the yeast mixture and mix well. make sure the margarine or shortening is not hot when you add it or you risk killing or at the very least damaging the efficacy of the yeast.

mix the salt and flour together.

add the yeast mixture to the dry ingredients.

with a wooden spoon mix the wet with the dry.

mix until you get a shaggy mixture.

bring it together in a round of dough.

place a bowl over the dough and let it sit for 15 minutes.

knead the dough for a good 5 minutes. the texture of the dough should be firm but kneadable.

place the dough in a greased bowl and let rise for about 2 to to 2 1/2 hours.

preheat your oven to 400 F 1/2 hour before you bake.

remove the dough and flatten it. don't knead it.

shape the dough into a square.

cut the dough evenly in half.

cut each half evenly into 3 squares.

form balls and cover the dough and let rest (covered) 15 minutes.

take each round and make a disk with it by using your hands or a rolling pin. this is to make the rolling easier. place them back in a bowl or on a plate and cover.

you can make round shapes or rectangular ones for lavash.

for the round shape:

place a flattened dough round on an unfloured surface and roll it out by turning and flipping it over from side to side. the dough should not be sticky; if it is, then use a bit of flour.

this will take a bit of practice if you aren't skilled but it is very easy.

keep rolling until it is very thin and about 12 to 14 inches across.

take your hand and wet it under the tap and then place it on the dough round. spread it all around the dough until it is thoroughly moistened and the surface looks whitish. this takes about 5 to 10 seconds only.

sprinkle sesame seeds over the surface evenly.

take your rolling pin and roll the seeds into the surface of the dough. this is to prevent them from popping off.

transfer the round to a parchment paper or greased paper by taking by edges and lifting. remember, the dough will stick to an ungreased surface and make removal difficult so grease your pan in not using parchment.

for the rectangular shape:

take the dough round and roll it lengthwise.

you will probably have to roll it sideways also to stretch it further.

once it is the length of, say, a small forearm, take each corner with your finger and shape a square corner. do this to all four corners.

wet dough as described above and sprinkle with seeds, rolling them into the dough.


to bake both:

bake them one by one only. they are fairly large and should be baked in the middle of the oven; baking on double racks may cook the lower one too quickly. as one is baking, you have enough time to roll out the next one.

it takes only about 8 minutes to bake them. they will remain whitish and will be golden in spots. don't let them overbake or they will become too brittle. the breads will bubble in certain areas as they bake.

let the lavash cool.

(underside)

they will be somewhat soft and somewhat crisp. tear pieces and use as you would pita. if you are using them right away, you can place them in a plastic bag after you take them out of the oven to soften them up further. if you've never had lavosh before, don't expect pita breads from these; they are much thinner and the texture is different.

if you store them, they will dry out further, however this is fine.

to use your lavosh: (see here also)

they are typically & traditionally brought back to life (usually to make breads for sandwiches) by doing the following:

either wet the whole lavash under the tap and then place wrapped in a damp clean teatowel or spray it with water and place in teatowel. at this point, i usually place it in a plastic bag to keep the moisture.

it must rest for several hours to soften up. depending on how dried out it is, it can take quite a few hours (like all morning). you know when to use it when it is malleable enough to roll. if you leave it too long, however, it can become too moistened — so keep checking it every once in a while.

use it to wrap up a filling as you would a burrito OR roll it up around your filling as for pinwheel sandwiches and cut into rounds.

enjoy!

weekend pastries

these rich sweet pastries, served alongside strong turkish coffee or espresso, were always something i remember eating on weekends only. i guess they weren't considered everyday fare by us but rather a food to be enjoyed on those days when one did not have to work, when one took his/her time to appreciate things.

redolent of the flavours of the eastern mediterranean, tahinli are made with a butter and egg pastry dough and envelop a sweet filling made from sugar, t'hina paste and orange flower water. they are eaten especially in turkey, armenia and israel. like many {adopted} sefardi pastries and breads, this one is also in the shape of a rosca — or twisted (screw). it doesn't have to be twisted, however it does look much nicer if it is.

tahinli are fairly straightforward to make but if you're one of those pastry-challenged types, you may just want to look at the pictures and get someone else to make them for you! lol. if you do make them, try not to omit things like the mahlep and orange flower water from the recipe. it becomes less authentic and flavorful when you do.

this post has quite a few pictures because there are quite a few steps to it. some of the pictures are blurred and less than quality. you'll get the idea nonetheless....


tahinli
sesame paste filled pastries

yields 6 five inch pastries or 4 large ones

{Not really a beginner's recipe but give it a try!}

ingredients:

1 heaping teaspoon dry yeast
1/2 tsp sugar
1/3 c. warm water

1/4 tsp salt
2 - 2 1/2 c. all purpose flour
1/2 - 1 tsp mahlep
2 tbsp unsalted butter or non-dairy margarine
1/4 c. milk (or soy milk or water)
1 1/2 - 2 tbsp oil or shortening (melted and measured)
1/8 tsp salt

2 1/2 tbsp sugar
1 egg
1/2 c + 2 tbsp tahina (sesame paste)
1/2 c sugar
2 tbsp oil or melted butter
2 tsp orange flower water

2 tsp finely chopped shelled pistachios per pastry (optional)
4 tbsp orange flower water for coating pastry

1 egg (for eggwash)
raw sesame seeds sugar (granulated or demarera)


method:

proof yeast with warm water and sugar.

set aside approximately 10 minutes.

in a pyrex 2 cup measuring cup (or small pan) heat the milk and melt the butter in it.

transfer this to a mixing bowl and add the oil or shortening, salt and sugar and mix well.

while still warm (not hot!) add the egg and yeast mixture and mix well with a whisk.

in another bowl, mix the salt, flour and mahlep.

add this to the egg mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until you get a dough.

the dough will be slightly sticky and depending upon humidity and measurement, you may need a bit more flour. start with the 2 cups and add more gradually while kneading.

remove the dough and knead the dough using/adding the extra 1/2 if needed. it will get less sticky as you knead more and after proofing.

once you have a nice dough, place it back in a greased bowl covered with plastic wrap.

put the dough in a warm area (inside a microwave works well) and let proof for approximately 2 hours (until doubled).

punch down the dough and place it on counter and knead it for a minute.

divide the dough in 4 to 6 pieces. Let the balls rest about 25 to 30 minutes.

after 15 minutes, place the tahina, sugar, oil, and orange flower water in a small bowl and mix well to incorporate. the mixture will be granular.

when the balls have proofed, start to shape the dough.

roll each ball one at a time into a disk between an 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick. Try to make them all the same size.

if making 4, it should measure about 11 or 12 inches — less if you are making 6 pastries.

then divide the tahina mixture evenly for each pastry, approximately 3 tablespoons each. spread this out VERY thinly almost to the edges.

if you like, sprinkle 2 - 3 tsp of finely chopped pistachios on each one.

roll each round fairly tightly all the way to the end.

pinch each end closed.

slowly and gently roll each pastry back and forth with your hands to extend it starting at the middle.

don't worry if small tears occurs. the final dough will be almost as long as from the tip of your fingers to your elbow.

(perhaps with a helper) twist the long strand of dough gently over and over again. don't overtwist or you will snap it.

once that is done, have 2 baking sheets ready either lightly greased or lined with parchment.

coil the pastry loosely from the center working outwards and tuck the very end underneath.

place equal amounts of finished pastry on each sheet. you need the space for the final rolling.

preheat your oven to 350 F.

let your pastries proof an extra half hour but you do not need to cover them tightly. just place a teatowel over them.

at this point, after proving, they may look strange with the centers popped up. that will be fixed with the rolling. don't worry about that if it happens (it probably will).

you may also notice small amounts of oil weeping from the pastry. this is normal too.

after about 15 minutes of waiting, beat the egg in a small dish and have a pastry brush ready.

measure out the 1/4 c. of orange flower water. have the sesame seeds ready in another bowl and some sugar in another.

now flatten each pastry with a rolling pin gently to half it's size (deflate it).

prick it all over with a fork to arrest its rising in the oven.

using a pastry brush wash the pastries with orange flower water all over. then use the egg wash.

sprinkle each pastry generously with sesame seeds and finally with sugar (it will make a nice crust when baked).

bake pastries for 30 minutes or until golden brown.

you may freeze the pastries (if you have any left!).

these taste great warm(ed).

enjoy!