the other side of rice

unless you have grown up with it as part of the food your family ate, bulgur — not "cracked wheat" with which it is often confused — is most probably one of those food items you are not too familiar with. these days, however, it is becoming as popular as other commonly consumed grains like rice.

bulgur wheat can be used in a myriad of ways to produce many delicious recipes and has a very long history with those peoples who have originally used it as a staple. it is a healthy grain and is great for vegetarians and vegans as it can be used for innumerable meatless dishes.

before using bulgur wheat it is important to realize that it comes in different degrees of fineness, from coarse to medium to fine. often, they will be marked with only numbers such as "no#1", continuing with 2, 3 & sometimes 4. ideally, each is used in a specific way for the particular recipe you are making. not all supermarkets carry all the different grinds so you may need to make a trip to a store which specializes in selling items like this. note also that there is a dark kind of bulgur [most common] and a golden one. for the following recipe, you will need the coarse grind (brown or golden).

rice-like once cooked, coarse bulgur wheat is almost always exclusively used to make dolma (stuffed vegetables) and pilavs. here, i am using it the way we ate it at home; an excellent side dish and alternative for rice and couscous, bulgur pilav is very popular and goes well with fish and meat. it is really one of my favourite ways to enjoy bulgur wheat.

if you can make rice, you can make this pilav. you'll also make it again and again!


bulgur pilav

ingredients:

1 c coarse grind bulgur (medium is ok but coarse is best)
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped (optional)
2 tbsp margarine + 2 tbsp olive oil
1 medium sized tomato, chopped OR,
1 tbsp red pepper paste or tomato paste
1 1/2 c stock or water*
salt & pepper as need/wanted

*usually it is a 1:2 ratio of bulgur to water but here you want only 1 1/2 cups so the finished dish will be al dente.

method:

melt the 2 tbsp of margarine in a fry pan or casserole which has a tight fitting lid.

add the chopped onion and fry it over medium heat until it starts to brown. at this point, add the garlic if using.

add the tomato and fry it with the onion (and garlic) for about 5 minutes. stir it every minute or two.

add the stock or water and salt and pepper. if the stock is not salted, or if you are using water, you will need more salt. it is usually around 1/2 tsp salt + 1/8 tsp black pepper. bring this to a boil.

add the 2 tbsp of olive oil and the bulgur wheat and stir. bring it up to a boil again.


turn down the heat to minimum and place the lid on the pan. cook it for about 20/25 minutes as you would for rice.

at the end of the cooking time, remove the lid and check to see all the water has been absorbed. stir the mixture and place the lid back on.

remove the pan from the heat and let it sit for about 15 minutes before serving. it should be al dente and not mushy.

you can either place the bulgur in molds and press it in firmly, unmolding it on your serving plates or just serve as you would for rice.

enjoy!

friday night appetizers

ushering in, and honouring, the Sabbath each friday night at sunset usually means a table filled with an array of food of all kinds — and always more than just enough to feed those sitting to eat. the typical foods commonly depend upon whether one's family is ashkenazi or sefardi, and from which country they originate(d). of course, there are no steadfast rules. apart from the dietary laws, if they are followed, each family has its own mix of traditional and non-traditional items.

one sefardi mezze dish (appetizer) that is often served by those who have origins in places like lebanon, syria, egypt, iran, israel and iraq, is kibbeh or kubbeh. these torpedo shaped filled appetizers made from bulgur wheat or a mixture of meat and bulgur (or even ground rice) can be eaten hot or at room temperature. i personally do not like the ones made from meat and bulgur. rather, i much prefer those which are vegetarian and use just softened bulgur wheat and flour for the casing.

making these appetizers is a pretty straightforward procedure and fairly easy: make the filling, make the casing, put it all together and fry. as a note, they can be baked but it's not really the same end result. you'd have to try one baked and one fried to see which you prefer. they can be partially fried and then cooled and frozen for later use. you just have to refry them (or bake at 400F) until they are browned.

the casing can be made one of two ways: you can knead the softened bulgur wheat by hand, which is what i have done here, or add it to the food processor. the latter method is really the easiest and probably the best route if you've never made them before.

give them a try, at least once. they really are worth the effort.



vegetarian style kibbeh
stuffed bulgur wheat appetizers

enough for six servings (2 kibbeh/person)

recipe adapted from a. helou

ingredients:

casing:

1 small onion*
1 c FINE bulgur wheat**
1/2 c wholewheat or all purpose flour
1/2 to 3/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp ground allspice, heaped
1/4 tsp cinnamon, heaped
1/8 tsp ground black pepper, heaped

*make sure to use the correct size. do NOT use a larger one as there will be too much moisture.
**to make these successfully, you need fine granulation bulgur wheat and not medium coarseness.

filling:

1/4 c mild olive oil or (parve) margarine
2 tbsp pine nuts
1 medium onion
1/3 c COARSELY*** chopped walnuts, (not finely chopped - see pict. below!!)
1/2 tsp ground allspice, slightly heaped
1/4 tsp cinnamon, slightly heaped
1/8 tsp ground black pepper, slightly heaped
1 tsp pomegranate syrup (dibs al-rumman)****
1 - 2 tbsp chopped dried apricot or golden raisins or dates, optional

***if you're using whole walnuts, just snap them into small pieces or chop with a knife; you want texture.
****1 tsp of pomegranate syrup goes a long way so try not to be tempted to add more than this. don't omit it as it gives the correct flavouring to the stuffing. if you can't get the syrup, you can try to boil down 1/3 c pomegranate juice until it is syrupy. be careful not to burn it as it reduces however. taste before adding it — if it tastes burnt, discard it and use lemon juice instead [mixed with a little molasses].

method:

for the casing:

you need a very fine sieve to strain the bulgur wheat or place a clean cotton tea towel in a larger hole strainer. if you don't, you will see your bulgur go down the drain, literally!

place the cup of bulgur wheat in a large bowl and add warm water to it, to cover by 2 inches, and 1 tsp salt. stir it and let sit for 1/2 to 1 hour (you can make the filling at this point while waiting). you may want to rinse the burgul once before soaking.


either in a food processor or blender, process the small (peeled) onion until it is very very finely ground (almost liquid). if using a blender, you may need a tsp or two of water. add the spices and blend again.


drain the bulgur wheat and squeeze out as much water as you can. this is very important to do. if using the tea towel, bring the sides up and twist it to extract as much water as you can.

now, if you are doing things by hand, place the drained bulgur wheat in a large bowl and knead it for about 3 or 4 minutes. add the onion mixture, flour and salt and knead again for another several minutes until you have a ball of dough. you may need to wet your hands under the tap every once in a while but it should be ok. check for salt and if needed add some more.

if doing this the food processor way, add the bulgur to the onions and blend it by pulsing for 2 minutes or so. remove it to a bowl and add the flour and knead until you have a ball of dough which is smooth.

set the dough aside, covered.

for the filling:


finely chop the medium onion and set it aside. measure out all the ingredients needed. make sure that the walnuts are not finely chopped as you want texture to the filling. if using whole walnuts, just snap them into smaller pieces (no smaller than at least 1/4").

add the oil or margarine to a heated fry pan and place the pine nuts in it. carefully fry the pine nuts until they are golden brown (not darkened). remove them to a paper towel and keep the oil in the pan. do the same with the walnuts.


add the finely chopped onion to the oil and fry it over medium heat until it has started to become golden brown.

add the walnuts and stir. add the spices and the pomegranate syrup.

add the pine nuts and dried fruit if using & mix everything and set it aside for later.


putting things together:

take the ball of kibbeh dough and separate it into 12 equal portions. set aside.

on a plate divide the filling into 12 equal portions.

take one of the kibbeh balls and place it in your hand.

make out a hole with your thumb on your free hand and start to turn the dough, making a thin wall all around. you want the shape of a hollowed out pumpkin! don't, however, make the walls too thin.

place 1 portion of the filling in the hole and close it up.

take the closed ball and start to shape it by rolling it in your hands, slowly but carefully, into a torpedo shape, pointed on each end. note that you make need to wet your hands. just have them moistened rather than dripping wet.

place the kibbeh down and form all of them this way. make sure there are not openings in the walls of the kibbeh or they will fall apart or fill with oil when frying.


cooking the kibbeh:

important: just like cooking falafel, if you're heat is not at the proper temperature, what you are frying here risks falling apart. most likely, it won't so don't be apprehensive.

place about 3 to 4 cups of oil in a pan and bring it to medium heat. you can take a small piece of bread and put it in to see if it starts to bubble and fry. if the heat is too high, take the pan off the heat and let it cool slightly; lower the temperature before proceding.

place the kibbeh about 4 at a time in the oil and cook them until they are browned, turning if necessary.

i cook them for about 6 to 8 minutes.


if you are freezing these, cook them half way and place on paper towel until cooled. freeze until you want them. see the intro for how to cook them after being frozen.

enjoy!

reruns no. 2 — lebanese garlic (mayo) sauce

in following with the theme of revisited recipes, this one is for the popular and much sought after sauce, or condiment, which goes by its arabic name thoum. thoum is really just the word for garlic however. considering the amount of 'hits' my blog gets for it regularly, since the time i originally posted that recipe, i figured it is time to post the other version. the first recipe, posted over 2 years ago, is eggless. it also uses one whole head of garlic! this one includes the yolk of one egg and few cloves of garlic.

before i give the recipe, i will say that some people don't know or 'get it' that the authentic version of this sauce is made without eggs and quite a bit lot of garlic. in essence, it is a mixture of garlic mashed with salt to yield a purée into which oil is slowly added. it is then finished with lemon juice. making it this way has its faults in so much as it is extremely difficult to do, even for those who are experienced. it is an unstable emulsion which is very tempermental and requires the correct measures and perfect touch of hand, whether made traditionally in a large mortar or by modern methods (blender). the eggless version i posted in 2006, was thickened, as many people do it, with a piece of boiled potato, making a garlic sauce which does not separate and reduces the acridity, or harshness, of the garlic. adding either the boiled potato or a piece of moistened bread to it makes it stable (nothing worse than having all your work separate and fall apart before your eyes!).

* * * * *

the other way to make thoum stable is to use an egg yolk, an ingredient which makes a thick unctuous product. this creamy off-white coloured garlic sauce is also the one, i believe, the majority of people are looking for and the one which they are accustomed to finding in (fast food type) lebanese restaurants.

the best way to prepare this condiment is in a blender or with a hand held immersion blender. if you choose the latter route, make sure you have someone helping you to hold the vessel/cup in which you blend the ingredients, as it becomes difficult, even next to impossible, to keep it from wobbling around while blending and trying to add the oil all at the same time.

the most important thing when making this is NOT to rush. if you're one of those people who are impatient, then you are better off getting someone else to make it or just to buy it. while making this sauce is pretty straightforward, it still requires attention to detail and a steady hand.

the sauce is good for 1 to 2 weeks if well refrigerated. only use mild olive oil or a blend of vegetable and olive oil. remember this recipe is more like a mayonnaise (and therefore highly caloric) while the other has a different texture. that one, i'd say, is more like a sauce than a mayonnaise. it also uses less oil and is more pungent.


lebanese garlic mayonnaise sauce

makes approx. 1 cup

ingredients:

3 large cloves garlic + 1 smaller one
1 large egg yolk
1 1/2 tsp (no more than that!) water*
1/4 tsp salt

1 c (8 oz) regular olive oil or blend of vegetable and olive oil

white vinegar mixed with water to equal 3 tbsp OR,
juice of 1/2 small lemon

*the water is there to help blend things easily. DO NOT omit it.


method:

have your mise-en-place ready first. you don't have time to run around the kitchen grabbing ingredients.

*i am using an immersion blender here; you can use a regular one. do NOT use a food processor.

place the garlic and egg yolk in the mixing bowl (or tall sided immersion blender jar). if you don't trust your blades are sharp enough, you can use a mortar and pestle to grind the garlic to a fine purée with the salt and then add it to the blender with the egg yolk and continue from that point.

blend it for a minute just to break up the garlic. it will further break down as you progress.

add the salt and the water and mix it for 2 or 3 minutes (pulsing) until is is broken down and blended.

this part is where you need to keep an eye on things. i can't say exactly how long it will take as it depends upon your ingredients and your method.

add the oil now in DROPS and blend in completely after each one, pulsing as you go.

continue to do this until your mixture looks creamy and emulsified. this is the sign of when to add the rest of the oil, slowly in more of a steady stream.

add the oil, in trickles and keep blending as you go. it will take some time, maybe up to 10 minutes. have someone hold the emulsion jug if that is how you're doing it or to slowly pour the oil as you blend and hold on to the jar.

once all the oil is incorporated, it should look like a whitish very thick mayonnaise.

taste it to see if you need more salt. add a tiny bit if necessary.

now add the lemon juice or vinegar and water mixture in a slow stream until it tastes right to you. you may not need it all, so taste test along the way.

refrigerate and use as wanted.

enjoy!

the imposter

seen throughout the (eastern) mediterranean, these bagel look-alikes are very popular snack item. vendors in places like israel and turkey sell them fresh from carts, still warm if you're lucky.

simit can be made the simple way, as i show here, or the dough can be twisted to make a more fancy shape. they are, for the most part, double the size of a standard bagel and come in different thicknesses. i guess one could call them a middle eastern/mediterranean bagel :)

the following recipe is simple and quick, with little fussing, so even the most "dough-challenged" person can manage it. it is the way we always made it at home.


simit
(turkish) sesame coated bread rings

wet ingredients:

1 tsp quick rise yeast or 1 1/2 tsp active dry yeast
1/2 tsp sugar
1/4 c warm water

1/3 c tepid water + 2 tbsp olive oil (plus extra WATER if needed)

dry ingredients:

2 c bread flour* (AP flour works also)
1/2 tsp salt, heaped
1/2 tsp sugar, heaped
1/4 tsp mahlep, optional

2 tsp dibz al rumman (pomegranate syrup)**
1 tsp water

RAW sesame seeds (~ 1/2 cup)

*try to use bread flour as it makes for a better simit.

**if this is unavailable, you can try to approximate it by using only pomegranate juice but the flavour will not be exactly the same. you can also either use an egg white or just plain water. the idea is to make the seeds stick.

method:

this can be made in a food processor or by hand. i am showing how to do with a food processor but follow the same instructions and mix by hand.

add the dry ingredients in the bowl of the food processor and pulse a few times to thoroughly mix.

place the yeast, sugar and 1/4 cup of water together and mix. let sit for about 15 minutes.

add the rest of the water.

turn on the food processor, and with it running, add the water slowly until it forms a ball. depending up your flour, you may need a little less than called for or a little more.

remove the dough from the process and knead for about 5 minutes. you should have a soft and non sticky dough.

place it in an oiled bowl and let sit for about 1 1/2 hours to prove.

when proved, remove the dough in one piece to a work surface (unfloured).

make a square shape and cut into four equal pieces. do not roll them into a ball.

take each square and poke a whole in the center. expand their width a little so they look like bagels. do this slowly so as not to break them. cover them and work with one at a time.

before starting this however, take two plates -- one for the sesame seeds and one for coating the bread.

make sure to have a baking sheet lined with parchment ready. you'll need a large baking sheet to hold all 4 rings.

make the wash from the syrup or use the alternative stated above. try to use the pomegranate syrup.

preheat the oven to 450F.

make a rough bagel shape by placing your fingers in the center and gradually expanding it while turning the dough EVENLY. it should be about an inch thick and approximately 7 to 8 inches wide.

if you want to make them twisted, cut the dough ring after expanding it only slightly and twist it. as you twist it, it will lengthen (or should). then reattach the ends and proceed.

place the expanded ring carefully on the clean plate. coat both sides with the pomegranate syrup.

carefully lift the ring to the dish with the sesame seeds. using a spoon, lift some of the seeds from the center and sprinkle them over the top. turn the ring over lifting it and coat the other side. try to get as many seeds on as possible. it should be fully coated.

lift the coated ring and place it on the baking sheet uncovered.

repeat 3 more times until all the rings are done.

let the simit prove for at least 20 minutes.

place them in the oven and bake for about 10 minutes and then lower the heat to 350 and bake another 5 to 10 minutes or until nicely golden brown. do not overbake them. if they burn, the seeds will turn bitter and the bread won't taste good.

remove them and let cool. you can eat them warm or at room temperature.

freeze them right away (cooled, of course!) if you want them later. they are really only good the day you make them. the recipe can be doubled.

enjoy!