a different kind of kugel

a very simple kugel (koo-gull) recipe using either store-bought or homemade bisquick mix, this has lots of flavour and is a bit different from the regular ones made from either potatoes or egg noodles. it is extremely light in comparison to other (heavy) kugels, being crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. kids seem to like it a lot, too, in spite of the "objectionable" presence of zucchini (eww, what's the icky green stuff?).

try it, you'll like it.


zucchini-carrot kugel

a few vegetables and some bisquick result in a tasty kugel that goes nicely with the standard brisket or chicken dish. it's also good just on its own :) while it contains no dairy products, you can add shredded cheddar or mozzarella. for another variation, you can add chopped small bits of other vegetables like broccoli.

ingredients:

3 c grated & drained zucchini* (skin on)
1/2 c very finely minced carrot
½ c onions, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 to 4 tbsp parsley, finely chopped (opt)

1 c bisquick or pancake mix -- (i add 1 1/3 c)

½ - 3/4 tsp salt
pepper, to taste
½ tsp dried oregano
½ tsp dried basil

½ c vegetable oil (not olive) -- i use less, 1/3 c only
4 eggs (can also use 2 eggs + 2 whites)

*make sure to drain the zucchini as there is a lot of water in it. i usually salt it, let it sit and then rinse and squeeze dry.

method:

preheat oven to 350F. oil a 9" square (pyrex) pan.

beat eggs in a large bowl and add the other ingredients (or any way you want, it doesn't matter as long as it's well mixed).

pour the contents into pan and bake 40 - 60 minutes (until a nice brown crust forms). i usually turn up the oven to 400F during the last 10 minutes.

remove and let sit to cool. i prefer serving this slightly warm as it firms up more as it cools.


to serve cut in squares or diamonds. can also be made in ramequins for individual portions. if making in ramequins, change your cooking times.

can be made in advance and frozen: thaw only slightly and reheat at 350 F uncovered.

enjoy!

caramel, pepper, jerusalem and a few eggs

..... oh yeah, and don't forget the noodles!

kugels can be made from a variety of noodles and/or vegetables and are simple and filling side dishes. this particular one is actually a specialty of the city of jerusalem and is easily whipped up in no time at all. it is somewhat different in that it requires making a caramel first from oil and sugar and then adding it to cooked fine noodles to provide both colour and flavour. the standard noodle kugels use wide (broad) type egg noodles and do not involve this kind of preparation.

while it does have sugar in it, this version is not particularly sweet. jerusalem kugels are always made with the addition of ground black pepper. that can be adjusted to suit one's taste but usually, they are quite peppery. once baked, they are a nice dark golden brown, crispy on the outsides and dense but soft on the inside.

and you thought noodles were only for italian pasta dishes ;p

jerusalem kugel

ingredients:

1/2 lb fine egg noodles (250 gr)
3 eggs

1/4 c vegetable oil
1/2 c white granulated sugar, divided*

1/4 - 1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground ginger, heaped
1/2 - 1 tsp ground black pepper

method:

boil a pot of salted water and cook the noodles until al dente. it should take less than 10 minutes as they are quite thin and small. do not overcook them.

drain well and set in a bowl.

preheat the oven to 350 F. grease a 6 - 7 inch cake pan, either round or square with margarine or oil. i like using margarine as it coats the sides better.

while they are cooling, heat 1/4 c of oil in a small pot or non stick fry pan. add *1/4 c + 1 tbsp of the sugar. reserve the rest for later.

stir the sugar in the pot or fry pan and let it melt.

it will slowly start to caramelize. do not leave it unattended.

once it is dark brown, very carefully add this to the noodles.

try to get all of the oil and sugar out of the pan. the mixture will sizzle a bit on top of the noodles; that is fine. mix well.

add the eggs, reserved sugar and seasonings to the noodle mixture. mix this well again.

add the mixture to the greased pan and bake for 1 hour or until well browned.

remove from oven. place a plate on top and then flip it over. you may want to check that it has not stuck to the pan first with a spatula before doing this. cut in serving pieces.

enjoy!

catching up

over the next few weeks, i hope to be able to catch up on some of the things i made during the passover holiday which can be used year round. the more specific things will be relegated to posts for next year.

a favourite dish in any ashkenazi jewish home is always potato kugel. it is a side dish usually served on holidays and the sabbath that goes with any kind of meat, often alongside something like brisket or chicken. having a sauce from the main dish makes it even better. potato kugel isn't something that can't be eaten on it's own either. i love it any time of the year or day.

for those of you who have never tasted or tried this before, it's sort of like a baked hashbrown or potato pancake but on a grander scale. it is typically crispy on the outside and soft and creamy inside, if it is prepared and cooked properly. luckily, it's not a complicated thing and can be very easily made by anyone.

potato kugels can be made in various ways: usually it comes down to how the potatoes are grated and what it is baked in. historically, it was baked in rounded shape pots which were covered and nestled in amongst the sabbath cholents (stews) which were then baked overnight in a very slow oven. the kugel's name derives from the german root word for ball. it is also interesting to note there are references to terracotta earthenware pots being used to cook kugels whereupon, when fully baked, they were cut into wedges. interestingly, it can still be done this way with a unused new terracotta pot [without the bottom hole!] which has been seasoned in order to prevent cracking. these days, it is simply baked in either a roaster pan or a pyrex dish of some dimension. for a classier and more refined look, or the special occasion meal, bake them in individual ramequins for single servings — just make sure you have enough ramequins! cook until they are well browned, probably about 35 - 45 minutes for that size.

fresh from the oven! [white patches are from still hot oil]

basic potato kugel

the following kugel uses potatoes which have been fully ground in a food processor. the recipe can be altered by grating the potatoes either finely or coarsely to give it a different texture. using finely ground potatoes gives it more of "mouthfeel" of what is commonly referred to as a potato pudding. i find it has a softer end result. the choice is yours, however. often we make what we remember from our own family tradition. in this recipe, the kugel mixture is also added to an already preheated oiled pyrex. this makes a big difference in the final product.

ingredients:

4-5 large potatoes, idaho or russet
1 1/2 medium sized onions
4 eggs
2 egg yolks (optional)
2 tbsp matzo cake meal (optional)
1/3 c matzo meal or 1/2 c all purpose flour
1 - 1 1/2 tsp salt, or to taste
1/4 tsp black pepper, or to taste
1 tsp sugar (optional)

8 x 8 glass pyrex
3 - 5 tbsp oil -- 4 or 5 is better

method:

heat oven 375 F.

peel potatoes, cut into quarters and keep under water to prevent browning. peel onion and cut into wedges.

add onion and potato together to processor or blender. process until you get mush. you should not have any chunks. note that grinding the onions together with the potatoes will prevent oxidation of the potato which makes it turn brown or gray.

place the oil in the pyrex pan [don't skimp on the oil] and place it in the oven. it must go in the hot oven for a minimum of 15 minutes to heat up.

in big bowl, add eggs and yolks and mix well with a whisk.

add the salt and pepper, and the sugar.

adding a bit of sugar helps with the browning of the potatoes while baking and adds a bit more flavour and balance.

add the potato-onion mixture and either the passover thickeners or just the flour. mix well again.

very carefully remove the hot pyrex with the oil from the oven and set it on the stovetop. add the mixture quickly with a ladle or pour it in if you feel brave enough. the quicker the better. the oil may come up the sides of the kugel through displacement, that is perfectly fine. it helps the kugel bake better. the point of the hot oil is to form an instant seal with the potato mixture, if you're interested in knowing why it is done this way.

using oven mitts, replace the HOT pyrex into the oven and bake for about 1 to 1 1/2 hrs, until nicely browned.

the kugel with get very crispy on the outside. it may look a little whitish on the outside after you first take it out. these are the fine bubbles of oil baking the kugel. they will disappear as it cools. if you find there is too much oil, carefully pour out the excess after baking is done [while it's still hot]. hey, what's the point of a non-greasy kugel — moderately greasy that is!

cut into serving pieces and enjoy!

and remember: go for the corner pieces 'cause they're the best :D

"prairie" kugel

i call this a prairie kugel. why? because i associate the main star of the show with the prairies of canada and a particular manitoban friend of mine. i came up with this kugel [based on another recipe] when i was overloaded with an abundance of this vegetable a few years back.

no, it's not a potato.

[for those who have no idea what in the world a kugel {koo-gull} is .... well, it is best described as a baked casserole [sidedish] usually involving a vegetable of some sort held together by the addition of eggs. it can also involve egg noodles, where it is called a noodle or lokshen kugel. kugels can be both savoury or sweet and are omnipresent at any jewish (traditional) meal. it is a typical sabbath and holiday addition to any menu.] to read more about what it is, look here.

so who is this star of the show, you ask? the lowly rutabaga, otherwise known as swede. we never call it that however.

photo: university of massachussets

did you know there is a whole controversy [more like confusion] as a rutabaga is not a turnip and vice verse? shocking, isn't it? enough to make your head spin. lol.

Brassica napus Napobrassica group (rutabagas) are closely related to cole crops and were an interspecies hybrid bred in Switzerland (summer turnip x winter white cabbage). The rutabaga was introduced into England about the end of the 18th century and was called the turnip rooted cabbage. Both white and yellow fleshed cultivars exist. The rutabaga root consists of both true root and true stem. The upper portion of the stem forms a neck. This neck distinguishes rutabagas from turnips. Rutabaga is a Norwegian term for a "Swede'' turnip.

quoted from atlantic vegetable production

i am talking about the yellow fleshed kind, not the white and these are what you will need for the following sidedish. it is a very light kugel and really is very good. it also always disappears fast when i serve it. i think it would make a perfect addition alongside the brisket for one of the nights for the upcoming holiday of hanukkah.

rutabaga [prairie] kugel
(and yeah, yeah.... i know it grows all over canada).

ingredients:

enough rutabagas for 4 cups mashed
[1 very large one* will give ~ 1 c. mashed turnip]

well salted water for boiling the rutabagas

4 eggs
1/3 c + 2 tbsp matzo meal or dry bread crumbs
2 tsp fine sea salt
2 1/2 tbsp sugar
1 1/2 - 2 tsp onion powder
1/4 tsp black pepper
1/2 c apple sauce [i use the (115 g) mini snack containers]
1/8 tsp cinnamon [don't omit!]

paprika
2 tbsp margarine
1/2 c ground cornflakes cereal, optional

method:

peel (*very large = large fist sized) rutabagas and cut into small chunks. cook in boiling well-salted water until very soft and cooked through. drain.


mash well with a potato masher, leaving very small chunks. it does not need to be totally smooth.

preheat oven to 375 F.

put the 2 tbsp of margarine in an 8 x 8 pyrex or similar dish. place this in the oven 10 minutes before you are ready to put the puree in the dish. the margarine needs to melt and the pyrex needs to get hot.

while the pryex is heating, put the mashed turnip in a large bowl. add the remaining ingredients and mix well.

carefully remove the baking dish from the oven and with a large spoon put the mixture into the dish. sprinkle the top with extra salt and pepper and dust with paprika. sometimes i will spread the ground cornflakes evenly on the bottom of the dish and try to coat the sides of the pyrex before adding the kugel mixture and returning it to bake. this adds an extra dimension to the finished baked dish.

return to the oven and bake for about an hour or until it is browning and pulling away from the sides of the dish.

enjoy while warm. best eaten the day it is made but still tastes fine over the next few days. reheat in oven, not microwave to keep it crispy. you can, however, microwave it with no damage.

enjoy!

a day at the spa for mr. chicken [otherwise known as my soup pot!]

today was chicken soup, *kugel & challah making day. what would the holidays be without these things?

[*kugel = a type of baked vegetable or noodle dish/casserole]

there are a million and half, and indeed many more, recipes for chicken soup. each family has its own way. here is my basic version. uncomplicated and never-fail, it is a staple — holidays, the sabbath or just any day.

as most jewish cooks know, the best chicken soup always starts with a kosher chicken. seek one out, if you can. they really do taste different.

my chicken soup

1 whole [kosher] chicken, with the skin on
2 medium onions, peeled
3 stalks celery
3 carrots
2 parsley roots [optional but makes a difference]
2 bay laurel leaves
several black peppercorns
dill

first the chicken needs to keep its skin on. removing it detracts from the final flavour of the broth. don't worry about "fat" content. you can always, and most probably will, remove most of — if not all — the fat in the end. this is simply done by refrigerating the stock and removing the solidified fat from the surface and discarding it.

wash the chicken well and let it drain, removing any leftover pin feathers [often found on the kosher chickens]. cut off any chunks of fat that are visible and either keep for another purpose or discard.

prepare the vegetables: peel carrots, parsley roots and onions & clean the celery. cut the celery and carrots into 2 1/2 to 3 inch pieces and leave the onions whole.

here are the ingredients all together —

once the chicken is prepared, put only the chicken into a large dutch oven and cover it with cold water only until it barely reaches the top of the chicken. i used a very large le creuset as the chicken was big.

let the chicken come to a boil on medium low heat. bringing it to a fast boil causes much more of the proteins to be released. cover the pot and check on it every once in a while. this is a slow process, not to be rushed. you may need to leave the cover slightly open if you have boil-overs.

after a while, you will start to see build-up on the surface. carefully skim this off and discard.

this is how it should look after you have done a good job ;-p

now is time to add the vegetables and your bay leaves and peppercorns. you may of course add whatever else you want. salt is not added now but that is up to you. i don't do it until much later. at this point, you may refresh with boiling water if too much has evaporated during the first stage [you shouldn't have to].


now cover the pot and let it simmer for 4 to 5, even 6, hours. keep it at just above minimum heat. check on it every once in a while.

here it is after several long hours:

one half hour before it is finished simmering, add salt to your liking and add a good bunch of fresh, vivid green dill or "kreep" as we call it in yiddish. taste and adjust accordingly.

the next step is to cool everything off and then remove the vegetables into one bowl. you may re-add these later or discard them or reserve for another use.

then very carefully remove the chicken [in pieces, if necessary] into another bowl. the chicken is shredded for adding back into the soup and for making kreplach [jewish ravioli] for the next holiday in one week from now, Yom Kippur.


place the stock in the fridge and let it sit overnight and gel. the next day you will have a layer of chicken fat which can easily be removed. skim it off in pieces and discard or use for cooking.


the stock is then reheated and very carefully strained to remove all impurities to leave you with a glimmering, golden rich chicken stock.


et voilà.

this stock can be used as soup or as a base for other preparations. freeze it in one or two cup measures to have on-hand when you need it. an essential kitchen stock item.

i decided to make a moroccan-style potato kugel this holiday. it is made with mashed potatoes rather than shredded, as in the typical ashkenazi preparation. here is what the finished dish looks like:

moroccan style potato kugel — batata bil firan

2 pounds peeled baking [russet] potatoes
4 teaspoons kosher salt [or 2 teaspoons table salt]
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 onions, diced
1 to 2 cloves garlic, chopped
6 large eggs
1 tbsp lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon hot paprika [optional]
1/2 teaspoon ground white or black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 carrot, cooked until tender and diced
1/3 cup chopped cilantro or fresh parsley

peel and quarter the potatoes and put in a large pot. add cold water to cover by 1 inch and 1 teaspoon of the table salt or 2 teaspoons of the kosher salt. add carrot cut into two pieces.

bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer, uncovered, until fork-tender, about 25 minutes. carrot may be done before the potato. do not over cook. drain and put potatoes, while still warm, through a food mill or ricer — or you can return the peeled potatoes to the cooking pot and mash them. add the eggs, one by one mixing after each addition. cover this and proceed to cut the carrots and add them and the lemon juice to the potatoes also.

preheat the oven to 350°F.

in a large pan heat the oil over medium heat. add onions and sauté until lightly golden approximately 15 minutes, adding the garlic and sautéing near the end of the cooking time. add the onions, parsley and spices to the potatoes.

generously oil an 8-cup baking dish, such as 8-inch square. heat in the oven until hot, about 5 minutes.

carefully spoon the potato mixture into the baking dish and dust the top with paprika. bake until golden about 50 to 60 minutes.

serve warm or at room temperature. 6 to 8 servings.

best eaten the day it is made. do not freeze.

recipe based on gil marks'

challah is asleep in the fridge until tomorrow morning. see you later!