reruns no. 2 — lebanese garlic (mayo) sauce

in following with the theme of revisited recipes, this one is for the popular and much sought after sauce, or condiment, which goes by its arabic name thoum. thoum is really just the word for garlic however. considering the amount of 'hits' my blog gets for it regularly, since the time i originally posted that recipe, i figured it is time to post the other version. the first recipe, posted over 2 years ago, is eggless. it also uses one whole head of garlic! this one includes the yolk of one egg and few cloves of garlic.

before i give the recipe, i will say that some people don't know or 'get it' that the authentic version of this sauce is made without eggs and quite a bit lot of garlic. in essence, it is a mixture of garlic mashed with salt to yield a purée into which oil is slowly added. it is then finished with lemon juice. making it this way has its faults in so much as it is extremely difficult to do, even for those who are experienced. it is an unstable emulsion which is very tempermental and requires the correct measures and perfect touch of hand, whether made traditionally in a large mortar or by modern methods (blender). the eggless version i posted in 2006, was thickened, as many people do it, with a piece of boiled potato, making a garlic sauce which does not separate and reduces the acridity, or harshness, of the garlic. adding either the boiled potato or a piece of moistened bread to it makes it stable (nothing worse than having all your work separate and fall apart before your eyes!).

* * * * *

the other way to make thoum stable is to use an egg yolk, an ingredient which makes a thick unctuous product. this creamy off-white coloured garlic sauce is also the one, i believe, the majority of people are looking for and the one which they are accustomed to finding in (fast food type) lebanese restaurants.

the best way to prepare this condiment is in a blender or with a hand held immersion blender. if you choose the latter route, make sure you have someone helping you to hold the vessel/cup in which you blend the ingredients, as it becomes difficult, even next to impossible, to keep it from wobbling around while blending and trying to add the oil all at the same time.

the most important thing when making this is NOT to rush. if you're one of those people who are impatient, then you are better off getting someone else to make it or just to buy it. while making this sauce is pretty straightforward, it still requires attention to detail and a steady hand.

the sauce is good for 1 to 2 weeks if well refrigerated. only use mild olive oil or a blend of vegetable and olive oil. remember this recipe is more like a mayonnaise (and therefore highly caloric) while the other has a different texture. that one, i'd say, is more like a sauce than a mayonnaise. it also uses less oil and is more pungent.


lebanese garlic mayonnaise sauce

makes approx. 1 cup

ingredients:

3 large cloves garlic + 1 smaller one
1 large egg yolk
1 1/2 tsp (no more than that!) water*
1/4 tsp salt

1 c (8 oz) regular olive oil or blend of vegetable and olive oil

white vinegar mixed with water to equal 3 tbsp OR,
juice of 1/2 small lemon

*the water is there to help blend things easily. DO NOT omit it.


method:

have your mise-en-place ready first. you don't have time to run around the kitchen grabbing ingredients.

*i am using an immersion blender here; you can use a regular one. do NOT use a food processor.

place the garlic and egg yolk in the mixing bowl (or tall sided immersion blender jar). if you don't trust your blades are sharp enough, you can use a mortar and pestle to grind the garlic to a fine purée with the salt and then add it to the blender with the egg yolk and continue from that point.

blend it for a minute just to break up the garlic. it will further break down as you progress.

add the salt and the water and mix it for 2 or 3 minutes (pulsing) until is is broken down and blended.

this part is where you need to keep an eye on things. i can't say exactly how long it will take as it depends upon your ingredients and your method.

add the oil now in DROPS and blend in completely after each one, pulsing as you go.

continue to do this until your mixture looks creamy and emulsified. this is the sign of when to add the rest of the oil, slowly in more of a steady stream.

add the oil, in trickles and keep blending as you go. it will take some time, maybe up to 10 minutes. have someone hold the emulsion jug if that is how you're doing it or to slowly pour the oil as you blend and hold on to the jar.

once all the oil is incorporated, it should look like a whitish very thick mayonnaise.

taste it to see if you need more salt. add a tiny bit if necessary.

now add the lemon juice or vinegar and water mixture in a slow stream until it tastes right to you. you may not need it all, so taste test along the way.

refrigerate and use as wanted.

enjoy!

two minute tapenade

tapenades, or olive paste spreads, are great items to have on hand for quick hors d'oeuvres or condiments to use for sandwiches or just eating with breads like pita or sliced baguettes. they are simple to make and can be tailored to suit your own individual tastes. one can use black type olives, like kalamata, or green types — or even a mixture of both.

i make very simple ones from already pitted and sliced olives (in brine) when i'm feeling lazy. otherwise, i like to use olives cured in oil and those which i pit myself. typically, i add capers and anchovy paste but not everyone likes that sort of thing or will eat it if they are vegetarian. i guess you have to know your crowd when you make this!

i'm calling this the two minute tapenade because that is literally how long it should take to make it once you have everything ready to go. how easy is that?



two minute tapenade

makes about 3/4 to 1 cup

ingredients:

1 jar sliced olives (drained) -- 375 mL
1/4 - 1/3 c extra virgin olive oil

lemon juice
black pepper
salt, to taste

optional:

1 - 2 tbsp capers (i use rinsed salt preserved ones)
1 - 3 anchovies or anchovy paste to taste


method:

drain olives and place in food processor with 2 tbsp olive oil. if using the capers and anchovies, add them now.

pulse the olives (and other ingredients if using) until they are ground.

add about 2 tbsp more olive oil and blend again until you get a paste. some people like it a bit textured so you will have to decide what you like.

remove to a bowl and add a bit of lemon juice and black pepper and stir well.

store in a small jar and cover with another tablespoon or two of olive oil.

enjoy!

a hanukkah necessity

come hanukkah, applesauce is on virtually every table to serve alongside loads of latkes and then more latkes.

this is a basic recipe for a homemade sauce which takes no time at all to make and is much better than the jarred stuff often bought at the grocery store with who-knows-what preservatives included.

make your own or give some as a gift in a nice glass jar — it'll certainly be well-appreciated.


basic applesauce

ingredients:

6 apples suitable for cooking
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 - 1/3 c brown or white sugar
1 cinnamon stick, broken (optional)*
1/2 c cold water

*you can add 1/4 - 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon instead

method:

peel apples and cut in chunks.

place them in a pan or a pot which has a lid. add the rest of the ingredients.

bring to a boil and then cover and lower the heat. cook over low heat for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring as necessary. different types of apples will cook down at different times.

cook until you get the desired consistency.

for a completely smooth applesauce, once cooled down, place in a blender or processor or mill. remove the cinnamon sticks before!

enjoy!

it's all about the butter

i couldn't not follow up my last post on lemon cream scones without something utterly delicious like homemade lemon curd to spread on them, now could i?

if you've never had this incredibly good dessert spread, it is something you MUST make. admittedly, i can sit and eat the whole thing on its own unless i exercise massive willpower — it really is that good.

making lemon curd is a fairly simple procedure, however it can be messed up if you don't keep an eye on things. as it involves eggs and heating them, there is always the margin for error where you can end up with scrambled eggs. not to scare you off from trying it, assuming you've never made it before, it is a terribly simple procedure and one which will leave you with a product far superior than that of anything store bought.

the way i am doing it here is for a microwave method which makes things go very quickly as opposed to the stovetop method which involves a double boiler or heat diffuser and constant stirring. seeing as most people these days own a microwave, it's a logical alternative. if you want to do it on stove top, see the recipe for alternate instructions. additionally, i use a heavy duty (i.e. powerful) microwave oven, so if your's is less powerful, it may require longer cooking times.

important for making a good lemon curd is straining the lemon juice and the eggs. this must be done to avoid "guck" in it thereby achieving that silky smooth texture for which it is known. this is achieved with a fine mesh strainer and not one with wide holes. one also needs to use unsalted butter or in a pinch semi salted, and omit the dash of salt called for in the recipe. also, heed the instructions (as usual) as adding the eggs while the lemon and sugar mixture is too hot, will end up cooking your eggs and ruining the whole exercise.

i've never tried using non dairy margarine for this to make a parve product but i'm sure it could work. will it taste as good? to be very jewish about it, i'll answer the question with another question and ask, "does anything taste as good without butter?" please. as the saying goes, it's always better with butter!

another thing is the use of just egg yolks versus whole eggs. i've tried both, the results are the same in my opinion. in this one, i'm using the whole egg and not just their yolks.

if you want a non-egg version, see the end of the recipe. i've never tried it so i can't give it a seal of approval. if any of you vegan-ites try it, or have, let me know in the comments forum at the end of the posting. i'd be interested in knowing how it is.

and now, on to the recipe......

quick 'n easy luscious lemon curd

certain things must be indulged in and this is one of them. tart, sweet and buttery this is the best spread for any english morning breads or for a filling for a refrigerated pie, topped with sweetened whipped cream. forget the diet — life is too short not to enjoy certain things. lemon curd also makes a great holiday or host/ess gift; the recipe is easily doubled or tripled. if you like, you can make an extra tart variation using limes instead of the lemons.

makes ~ 2 cups (16 oz or 500 mL) — can be doubled or tripled

ingredients:

1/3 c (2.6 oz or 75 g) unsalted butter
3/4 c (1/3 lb or 151 g) granulated sugar
1/2 c (4 oz or 118 mL) lemon juice (about 3 large lemons)
2 eggs (yolks & whites)
dash of salt

method:

ream your lemons and strain them. this is very important. measure out the 1/2 c of juice. if you like you can add the grated lemon rind (which i don't like but that's up to you).

place the lemon juice, dash of salt, sugar and butter in a microwave safe glass bowl (medium sized).

microwave on high heat for up to 4 minutes, stirring after every minute. make sure to do this! if may take less than 4 minutes if you have a strong microwave oven. when the butter is melted, and all is dissolved, place it on the counter to cool for at least 3 minutes.

in the meantime, get a mesh strainer, and place it over another bowl. take the two eggs, one by one and, with a whisk, extract as much egg as possible. you will likely have some left over which does not pass through. that is fine.

continue with the next egg and repeat procedure. take a spatula and press the remaining egg against the mess to extract as much egg as possible.

discard what does not pass through it.

place the eggs in the cooled down lemon butter mixture and whisk well to blend.

now place the bowl in the microwave and cook it at 1 minute intervals. stir after each one minute.

in my case, after 1 1/2 minutes, it is almost cooked! i continue to cook it at 30 second intervals for a total of 3 minutes until the mixture cleaves onto itself and is thick like a very light pudding or whipped cream. whisk again well.

do not over cook the curd. it will thicken upon cooling.

place the curd into a very clean (sterilized) jar — i use a funnel to do this.

let it cool completely. i usually place a piece of muslin or light cotton cloth (or use cheesecloth) over it to allow the steam to escape. if you cover it with the lid, the steam will form water on the curd. if you're using a wide mouth jar, you can always cover the curd with a piece of plastic wrap and stab slits into it to allow the steam to escape as it cools. either way works.

knock the jar on the counter a few times also before it cools to let any air bubbles come to the surface.

store in the fridge.

enjoy in copious amounts!

STOVE TOP METHOD:

on top a double boiler or heat diffuser, over medium low heat, dissolve the lemon juice, sugar, salt and butter.

strain the eggs. place a 1/4 cup of the butter mixture in the eggs and mix them well and then slowly dribble the egg mixture into the lemon butter one. do this off the heat.

return the mixture to the heat and whisk continually until it gels and thickens.

see above for cooling and storing it.


NON EGG (vegan) version:

ingredients:

1/4 c (cold) water
1/2 c sugar
3 tbsp cornstarch
1/4 c lemon juice
1 tsp finely grated lemon zest
pinch of salt

method:

in a bowl whisk together the water, sugar, cornstarch, and salt until cornstarch dissolves.

transfer everything to a saucepan and bring it to a boil over medium high heat.

stir constantly and when mixture thickens, reduce the heat to low. cook it for another minute and keep stirring constantly.

now pour mixture into a bowl and add lemon juice and zest. mix well.

let cool and thicken at room temperature.

this version is best served at room temperature. it can be refrigerated, covered, for several days but before serving, beat it again thoroughly with a whisk.

makes approx. 1 cup.

exponentially hot

this is a recipe for north indian style carrot pickles from julie sahni's book, classic indian vegetarian and grain cooking.

while pretty much on the mild side when first made, over the span of two to four weeks, these will intensify to the point where a little will go a long way. in other words, they become hot, hot, hot. the combination of red hot chillies and cracked mustard seeds really heat things up but not so much as to make it unpalatable, in any sense. if you like hot, then this is for you. they are also tart and crunchy due to the addition of lemon juice and very short cooking time.

as with many north indian pickled vegetables, they are preserved in mustard oil. there are several brands available however many are now mixed with other oils and are considered as "blends". often, on the bottles, you will notice that it says 'for external use only'. at one point, there was a problem with the production of this oil where it is said that some corrupt manufacturers mixed it with other oils which were not fit for human consumption. it has become controversial and many countries put 'for external use only' on the bottles to avoid problems. the brand i use is "ktc" (from the UK) and works well for the following pickle.

mustard oil also has to be heated to smoking point very briefly before being used. if all this is "too much" for you, stick with vegetable oil :) just don't do the 'bring to smoking point' part of it. the other necessary ingredients like asafetida and brown mustard seeds are items you'll need to get from a store which sells indian food products.

hot north indian-style carrot pickles

ingredients:

1 lb carrots (~4 large carrots)
1 tbsp (kosher) coarse salt
1 tbsp crushed brown mustard seeds
1/2 tsp ground asafetida
1/2 tsp turmeric powder
whole red chillies, enough to make 1 1/2 tbsp crushed

1/3 c lemon juice
1/2 - 2/3 c mustard oil (i use ktc)

method:

carefully wash and dry a glass jar that will be appropriate to store your pickles in. it must be perfectly clean and dry to prevent contamination or spoilage.

peel and cut carrots into 2 1/2 inch lengths and then into a little less than 1/2 inch wedges or sticks. set aside. do not cut them too thinly as they will cook through and be soft — you want a crisp pickle, not a cooked soft one.

grind the brown mustard seeds until they are coarsely powdered. place in a small bowl.

take the chilies and break them and remove the seeds. crush them with your hands or in a mortar. they should be coarsely crushed and not powdered.

measure out the asafetida and juice the lemon.

make sure to have everything ready as the recipe goes very quickly and you may chance cooking the carrots too much if you have to stop and measure.

place the salt, turmeric, chillies, mustard seed and carrots in a medium sized bowl and mix them all together well.

on medium high heat, place the mustard oil in your wok or khadhai or cooking 'vessel'. you must heat the mustard oil to the point where it is only just starting to smoke. this is absolutely necessary so do not avoid this step. it is only ever used for mustard oil.

add the asafetida and stir quickly. add the carrots and all the spices in the bowl.

stir fry this for only 1 minute.

add the lemon juice and stir fry for another 2 minutes only. do not exceed this time or you may risk cooking your carrots.

remove the carrots from the heat and pack them in the clean jar and cover with all the liquid from the pan.

let cool completely in the jar and cover.

the pickles need to sit for about 4 to 5 days. shake twice a day until ready to eat.

as they age, they get hotter and hotter.

store in the fridge and only use a dry clean fork to remove them. they will mould if they come into contact with water.

enjoy!

a great sauce

this post is a bit late and really should have either been the prelude to, or follow-up for falafel 101, but i guess better late than never ;P

for years i have seen people commenting all over the internet about how they have had difficulties making this sauce. i don't really understand why as it is very straightforward and a breeze to make — it is pretty much fool proof. in conversation one day with someone, it dawned on me one day that part of the problem stemmed from the fact that some people are making the mistake of not incorporating the settled oil and paste together before using it! they simply take the hardened mass of paste to make it. though i've never done this, i imagine this is part of the problem.

the base for this sauce, which is commonly used on falafel, is the slightly bitter paste made from hulled and only lightly roasted sesame seeds. after bottling and settling, a thick cement-like paste will solidify on the bottom of the jar and a layer of sesame oil will float on top. in order to use the paste, it has to be stirred well and shaken to blend it back into one cohesive sauce.

called tahin'ah ("tahini") طحينة in arabic, and techina תחינה in hebrew [both words stemming from the meaning "ground up"], this mixture is also used as a sauce for meat dishes, on roasted or steamed vegetables and for making the middle eastern type of halvah. it can also be used in baking and as a substitute, in some cases, for peanut butter.

sesame seed paste is not only a middle eastern thing; different varieties exist in regional cuisines of china, japan and korea. the asian one is much darker however.

the tehina sauce can be made either completely by hand as i do it or in a food processor or blender. obviously, the latter two methods are quicker and less labour intensive. making it by hand is not much harder and remains my preferred method.


tehina sauce
basic sesame seed sauce

ingredients:

1/2 c "tahini" paste

2- 4 cloves garlic
1/2 tsp coarse salt

1/2 c water
juice of 1 lemon

salt & sugar to taste
ground cumin, optional

"by hand" method:

mix the paste into the oil if necessary and then shake very well. repeat a few times until you have a smooth mixture which is pourable. be sure to mix from the bottom of the jar.

peel the garlic cloves and place them in a mortar with the coarse salt. grind them together until you have a paste.

place the garlic in a 2 cup measuring cup that you can pour from. add the lemon juice to it and mix well.

add the water and mix again.

place the tehina in bowl and add 1/3 of the liquid. mix it well. it will become like a thick sauce, almost like peanut butter.

add the next third of the liquid.

once you stir it, you will see it changes colour and becomes pastier and clumpier. this is normal.

add the last third of the liquid. it will form a mass at this point usually.

keep mixing until it is thin and airy. the bubbles will disappear afterwards.

add salt and a bit of sugar (to balance the lemon and salt) and cumin if desired -- i never use it but some people like it.

whip the sauce again for a minute and serve.

the sauce will probably thicken upon refrigeration. just add a bit more lemon juice or water and mix it well with a whisk.

food processor or blender method:

if making in a processor or blender, place the garlic, lemon juice, water and salt together and puree until the garlic is incorporated. you should not have chunks or large pieces; it needs to be smooth.

add the tehina paste to the blender or processor and incorporate both until you have an off-white thin sauce. add more water if you want it thinner.

add salt, a bit of sugar and cumin if desired.

enjoy!